Few foods in America seem to evoke the passionate partisanship of barbecue. Aficionados swear allegiance to their favorite regional sauce -- bottled or homemade -- as they would to their native state or hometown. And while it may seem the simplest of recipes -- tomatoes, sweetener, vinegar, spices and smoke -- a good barbeque sauce will merit praise worthy of the most complicated epicurean production. The secret, adherents will tell you, is in the balance and blending of these basic flavors.
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